Day 2, Saturday August 17th
Bartow, West Virginia to Millboro Springs, Virginia
220 Miles, 50mph average

The gnats and our sore asses were soon forgotten when we woke up for the first real day of our adventure to find the surrounding West Virginia hills shrouded in mist. It was beautiful, and I was overjoyed to be on our way after so many months of planning. Worried about how long it would take to reach our destination, and being a bit of a freak, I had insisted we rise at 7am each day. We made our way to breakfast with bleary eyes and sat staring at each other, barely forming coherent thoughts (let alone sentences). The coffee took, hold and Matt and I could once again discern who was Adam and who was Zac. The included breakfast was pretty awful, but Zac compounded the problem when he failed to recognize the toaster French toast for what it was and gnawed on it cold. At 7am, this seemed particularly funny.


a beautiful West Virginia morning
with fog rolling off the hills
and the four of us ready to go

Back at our rooms, we packed everything up and walked outside to wipe the dew from our bikes. The roads were wet, but the sun was up and burning the mist from the hills. We loaded up, and were ready to take advantage of our early start until I decide to try and snap a picture of the four of us using my camera's automatic timer. It took me about 20 tries before I got the barely passable photo you see above. As this was our first real day we started out with roads more prone to laid back sweepers than to tight curves. Our days route started out with us heading deeper into West Virginia. We crisscrossed the Monongahela National Forest, heading first West, then South, then back East and finally South again into Virginia for the night. We were just beginning to find our stride as a group after a couple of hours when we headed into the most difficult section of the day, the serpentine route 66 to Cass, WV. I had been forced to drive route 66 a couple of years earlier in an underpowered Subaru, and it was one of the main roads in WV I was looking forward to on a bike. As we headed up the mountain, the curves got tighter, we got more aggressive, the tree cover got denser, and the road got wetter. This turned out to be an unfortunate combination. About halfway up the mountain we came across a car that had lost traction on the wet turns and ended up nose first five feet down in a ditch. Naturally we stopped to offer help. Unfortunately as we stopped we each ate up what room there was left in the turn forcing Matt, who was at the rear, to lay his bike down. Matt quite elegantly ditched his bike, never touching the ground with anything other than his boots. The bike scraped along the pavement until it tapped into the ditched car. Matt was entirely unhurt but in our rush to get his bike upright again, he cut his hand on his newly damaged fairing. Oh the irony. He got a clear 10 for the dismount but rates a slightly lower score for his follow through. The whole thing was of course quite nerve wracking. It was also kind of embarrassing. After apologizing for crashing into an already crashed car, we were forced to bear the generous offers of assistance of everyone who drove by. These were of course the same people we had just passed recklessly on our way up the mountain. I will say one thing for people in West Virginia, and every where we traveled for that matter: they sure are NICE! We resolved to take it easier and headed on to lunch at Sharpe's Olde Country Store and Museum in Slatyfork, WV.
full tummies equals happiness

There aren't a ton of places to places to eat on the country roads of West Virginia, but Sharpe's Olde Country Store definitely rates a stop. The sandwiches are nothing special but the store itself is quite pleasant. It looks like it's been in business for a long time with old fashion display cases, pine slat floors, a table for checkers and various bric-a-brac and what not strewn through out the store. After taking in the ambiance, we stepped outside to finish our sandwiches and a couple of great classic bikes pulled up.
a real motorcycle
Two really nice old Harleys and an Indian with a suicide shift. These weren't your typical trailered boulevarders either. The gents riding them and driven down from Ohio and Illinois for a week, tooling around on West Virginias country roads just like us. A light rain had commenced, and we were all duly impressed when these guys roared off down the curvy road on bikes with tires and brakes from yesteryear. I hope I'm still taking as much pleasure as those guys were from riding when I get to be their age. Giving ourselves a good half hour to digest we all trooped one by one to what must be one of the skankiest bathrooms in any state; then it was back at it.
After lunch we retraced our steps and headed back up to Cass on route 66. This is the only time on the whole trip we rode the same road twice. Unfortunately it also meant we would have to ride the same curve where Matt bailed again. It was still misting, and the road was slippery so we took it super easy. By the time we reached the fateful curve, the crashed car was gone and there was nothing but a couple of tire tracks in the ditch to indicate anything had ever happened. I think we were all riding a little nervous; I definitely was. Riding nervous is never a good idea. The last time I had a similar experience of tiptoeing around mountain curves like this was 12 years previously when a member of a group ride I was on in Japan crashed and died. That was horrible enough, but this time I was feeling really responsible, having planned, organized and spent months cajoling everybody to come on the trip. It became clear to me that we were biting off more than Matt was ready to chew. He'd just begun to motorcycle, and he was still new enough that he needed to be spending time on less aggressive roads with less aggressive riders. I should have known this before we left but had shirked my responsibility to be more realistic about his depth of skill because I wanted him on the trip so badly. We had talked about it and agreed that if he felt like the pace was too much, he would simply go slower, reasoning you can get through anything if you go slowly enough. Unfortunately, this totally discounts the reality of group riding dynamics. I should have known better. Matt was being good about going his own pace, but it was clear that it was just too much for him. Luckily he clearly had been having similar thoughts, and when we stopped for the night, we decided to work out a less arduous route for him each day. We would spend as much of the day as possible riding on reasonable roads together, but he would take alternate routes when possible to avoid the extremely aggressive stuff, or just to cut down on the number of miles he did each day.
Adam executing his patented mount up
After we made it up the mountain and through Cass the sun came out, and things began to look up. We spent the early part of the afternoon exiting the Monongahela National Forest heading East and crossing into Virginia on Route 250. Virginia was breathtakingly beautiful. We traveled up and over several Appalachian ridges, descending down into valleys, each more spectacular than the last. The bucolic rolling hills and sun drenched farms of Western Virginia were just what I had imagined when I was planning the trip. The road was not unduly aggressive, and I began to again believe that the trip was just what all four of us needed to be doing at that time. I know for me there was nothing I could have imagined that I would rather have been doing. After about an hour we turned and headed South on route 42 towards our evenings lodging in Millboro Springs, Virginia. Though route 42 is without significant curves, it runs through a charmingly beautiful valley different in every sense from New York City. Happy to have left the city behind I was finally feeling relaxed, and the trip had truly begun.

Though I have made extensive use of the internet, chamber of commerce brochures, and travel guides, we were never really quite sure what to expect in the way of lodgings until we turned up. The Cabin at Sugar Hollow Farm turned out to be one of the real stand outs of the trip.


the cabin at Sugar Hollow Farm

A covered carport, a garage, 2 bedrooms plus a comfy couch, a great porch, a deck with a whirlpool (which we never got around to using) and bucolic views from it's perch atop a small hill of neighboring fields with horses made it a great place to recuperate after a rough 220 miles. Better yet, Steve the extremely friendly owner, has stocked the cabin with beer, burgers and dogs and some very nice homegrown tomatoes from his garden. After lugging our gear inside, we immediately popped a couple of beers and began to relax.

de-shimming my carbs
I had been having slight hesitation with acceleration around 7,000 rpm and I suspected it was being caused by the carb shimming I had done a couple of weeks before we left. The shimming, which I had read about in Motorcyclist magazine, had helped a low rpm stumble, but seemed to be either causing a higher rpm hesitation or had unmasked an existing one. Either way I decided I would try tweaking it. I'd brought a decent set of tools with me, so I pushed my trusty Kawasaki into thegarage and began disassembly. I opened her up to the carburetor main jets, and took 4 of the 8 shims I had added out (1 less for each carb).
Zac enjoys a beer on the porch
I buttoned her up, went for a short test ride and declared her fixed. With the carbs completed, we settled down to grilling up a great meal of burgers and dogs. We ate on the back porch as the sun went down. Simple pleasures. We spent a couple of glorious hours playing cards, drinking beer and cracking jokes like we were still in high school Then we stumbled into bed for a well earned rest. It had been quite a day from the low of Matt's crash to the bliss of chillin at the cabin.

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